Hairline (coronary band), level (parallel to ground) when viewed from the front. A slope of 30 degrees downward toward the heel of one foot weighted when viewed from the side.
Heels low enough to provide a 30 degree hairline slope when viewed from either side. This is usually under the heels cut to a smooth surface at the headquarters of corn. Each of the feet can be a different measure in inches. All horses are not the same! Heel height when measured most often fall between 1 "and 1.5" when measured from the hairline to the top of buttress.
The rooms picked up (floating) to be a bit passive to the ground.
The toes are often too long in domestic horses. Do not worry about the angles of the feet. Toe when viewed from the bottom of the foot (solar light) should extend beyond the apex frog more than 1 / 2 the length of the frog. In other words, the frog measured from its widest point in the heel to the tip would be equal to about 2 / 3 of the total length of the bottom of the foot and 1 / 3 of the total length is just beyond the frog apex . However, if the frog is pulled forward due to the fingers have been too long for some time, this relationship no longer applies. All burning feet must be removed at least in the third cut.
the shape of the toe should follow the curvature of the line of hair when he is with his feet on the ground.
The walls must be of equal thickness all round unless flaring that had to be removed, or if your toes need to back up, in which case the walls may appear thinner in the areas when viewed from the bottom. The walls also be the same or a little way above the level of the sole at the time and have a well rounded edge or what is known as a "mustang roll." I like to bevel the walls, about 40 degrees of the white line to the edge, then add the mustang roll. In this way the next time you cut, there will be little or no jumping.
The frog who comprise approximately 2 / 3 of the total length of the bottom of the heel stiffener to the tip of the toe. (Measured by the central line) are also taper down toward the apex to the center of the foot to a slight reduction in the impact with the ground. Often it is necessary to trim the frog that no jagged edges to clean after the first several decorations.
The bars should be flush with the unique and clearly visible. Bars do not grow beyond half of the frog. If you think this is the bar false and should be removed until at least flush with the sole.
The sole shall be at least slightly concave, except for the outside 1 / 2 inch and all the dead one scaled deleted.
In my opinion there is no need to take any measure in inches or centimeters to achieve an excellent finish, in fact, I feel that this practice may be harmful.
The only "measure" I recommend to take nothing more than the 30 degree hairline slope.
A properly fitted helmet is a beautiful sight.
Even before you begin:
The first step is to examine your feet are.
Look for uneven wear, the medial lateral imbalance and lack of symmetry in form. Also look for the burning in the fingers or quarters. (Take notes if you feel the need)
Then observe the horse in motion to watch out or steps irregular rhythm.
Then see how the horse is standing, one foot in front is always behind the other? Does the horse look reasonably comfortable and relaxed?
If the feet pointing forward or what finger or toe out? If they do well is because the foot shape is caused by something or above, check the alignment of the joints. Observe if the leg is reduced centered on the hull. These are all things that can affect the hull shape has therefore also affect balance. Some hoof problems can not be corrected by the cut, but often these problems can be at least kept getting worse.
Heels low enough to provide a 30 degree hairline slope when viewed from either side. This is usually under the heels cut to a smooth surface at the headquarters of corn. Each of the feet can be a different measure in inches. All horses are not the same! Heel height when measured most often fall between 1 "and 1.5" when measured from the hairline to the top of buttress.
The rooms picked up (floating) to be a bit passive to the ground.
The toes are often too long in domestic horses. Do not worry about the angles of the feet. Toe when viewed from the bottom of the foot (solar light) should extend beyond the apex frog more than 1 / 2 the length of the frog. In other words, the frog measured from its widest point in the heel to the tip would be equal to about 2 / 3 of the total length of the bottom of the foot and 1 / 3 of the total length is just beyond the frog apex . However, if the frog is pulled forward due to the fingers have been too long for some time, this relationship no longer applies. All burning feet must be removed at least in the third cut.
the shape of the toe should follow the curvature of the line of hair when he is with his feet on the ground.
The walls must be of equal thickness all round unless flaring that had to be removed, or if your toes need to back up, in which case the walls may appear thinner in the areas when viewed from the bottom. The walls also be the same or a little way above the level of the sole at the time and have a well rounded edge or what is known as a "mustang roll." I like to bevel the walls, about 40 degrees of the white line to the edge, then add the mustang roll. In this way the next time you cut, there will be little or no jumping.
The frog who comprise approximately 2 / 3 of the total length of the bottom of the heel stiffener to the tip of the toe. (Measured by the central line) are also taper down toward the apex to the center of the foot to a slight reduction in the impact with the ground. Often it is necessary to trim the frog that no jagged edges to clean after the first several decorations.
The bars should be flush with the unique and clearly visible. Bars do not grow beyond half of the frog. If you think this is the bar false and should be removed until at least flush with the sole.
The sole shall be at least slightly concave, except for the outside 1 / 2 inch and all the dead one scaled deleted.
In my opinion there is no need to take any measure in inches or centimeters to achieve an excellent finish, in fact, I feel that this practice may be harmful.
The only "measure" I recommend to take nothing more than the 30 degree hairline slope.
A properly fitted helmet is a beautiful sight.
Even before you begin:
The first step is to examine your feet are.
Look for uneven wear, the medial lateral imbalance and lack of symmetry in form. Also look for the burning in the fingers or quarters. (Take notes if you feel the need)
Then observe the horse in motion to watch out or steps irregular rhythm.
Then see how the horse is standing, one foot in front is always behind the other? Does the horse look reasonably comfortable and relaxed?
If the feet pointing forward or what finger or toe out? If they do well is because the foot shape is caused by something or above, check the alignment of the joints. Observe if the leg is reduced centered on the hull. These are all things that can affect the hull shape has therefore also affect balance. Some hoof problems can not be corrected by the cut, but often these problems can be at least kept getting worse.
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