HOW NOT TO LOAD HORSE ON TRAILOR

Error # 1:

"Here, Kitty Kitty ..."

Unless they have been educated, new horse owners often think a horse is like a cat or a dog. They figure if your thighs touch and say, "Come ... Come ... Come ..." the horse'll just jump right into the trailer like a dog or cat happy.

Error # 2:

"Using food as bait

Putting hay, grain, apples, or whatever in front of the trailer to tempt a horse at a walk and eat almost never works. Doing so would be a fluke. I've seen horses lean forward to try to eat the food, but not enter the trailer if your life depended on it.

Error # 3:

"Forgetting to attach the trailer to the truck"

Do not forget to hitch the trailer to the truck before getting a horse to ride in the trailer. If a horse step on a trailer that moves around unforgivable, have more difficulty getting the horse in the afternoon. He recalls - especially if it is the first time the horse.

Mistake # 4:

"The classic tug of war"

Here's the scene. The man (or woman) pulls lead rope to desperately dragging his horse into the trailer. Horse weighs 10 times more than a man or a woman and has a force far more than the man or woman. The final score of this battle is: Human - Zero ... Horse - Winner

Mistake # 5:

"Go trail riding horse is good before the load in a trailer"

I've seen time and again. People rushed to the horse and when the trip is but the horse will get in the trailer. Surprisingly, the horse owner comments, "Dang horse, got in the last month." Remember to get your horse to practice this so it is fixed in his brain.

It seems there will always be at least once a horse owner can not load his horse into a trailer. But the secret is to teach a horse sending signals so you know what you want him to do. It's partly how man and horse communicate.

If you ever find yourself frustrated with your horse because it will not enter, here's a quick fix.

Get a long rope and tie over his back and let it slide down to near the top of his hind legs. Let the rope around his hind success and note their reaction. (Be holding this rope in his right hand and hold his halter with the left hand) will kick the rope on his hind legs, or maybe not. If it does, it means that it is likely that along with the rope to be back there.

If you start in the string then he has to get used to it. Let the type of cord to hang there and touch his hind legs. The horse can jump and try to pass it. He can move forward or in a circle. While holding his halter stiffen your left arm a bit and make it go around while holding the rope and halter. You, the driver, are acting as an axis.

Fairly quickly the horse will notice the string is not hurt and can move to the next step.

Pull the string to get the horse to move with you. When you move forward from their extraction, release the pressure. The idea is that it moves when pressure is exerted. You should quickly realize what you want.

Now I have the trailer and head guide on the trailer if necessary. With the lead rope attached to his rope, pulling the lead rope while pulling harder on the "butt rope".

Your horse may or may not go in the trailer, but most likely will. Also, be careful to do this because he can jump in the trailer very quickly and you could get hurt.

COMMON HORSE CATCHING MISTAKES

The other day I was invited to see my friend's new horse. He had about a month before you get to see her. When I got home, he met me outside and said, "C'mon ... let's go see it." We stayed at the fence and marveled at how beautiful she was. Excited, he asked: "Do you want to pet her?" "Sure!" I said. So my friend took the halter and went after her.

As I watched him hunting I remembered the silent movies where everyone is moving comically fast with the background music. As I laughed to myself I heard him ask aloud, "Why keep running from me?"

That was a good question. Many people have that problem. There are lots of reasons horses run from their owners. One reason is fear. Horses are the epitome of fear. If they feel their life is in danger will remain.

If a horse is comfortable with his pack, although one or two other horses, which can be uncomfortable for him. Its entire DNA speaks loud and clear to him that the herd is the safest place. Therefore, if you leave the herd could mean his life is threatened - at least ... that is their thinking.

One of the biggest mistakes I see are the new owners of horses that make their horse work almost every time you see them. Picture of it. You're a horse standing there with his friends. Is ninety-four degrees on its side, flies will not leave you alone, and was doing very well standing there doing nothing - thank you very much. And because they are extremely alert because of their innate fear, you quickly find the owner comes to claim that the strange appearance, the rope not-so-good-fitting that goes in the head.

The last 400 gazillion times the owner approached you with it in hand, he accidentally stabbed in the cheek while clumsily jerking it on the head. Then output to your friends and go run in circles for thirty minutes. Boring!

Rather, the horse owner should alternate working and pleasure horse. In other words, a day's walk from his horse with rope in hand and pet him. Talk to him. Tell her how beautiful she is. Take your halter and rub it on your body as a paintbrush. Get to think that the halter will give pleasure when he sees what will feel good about it.

The next day, with the rope in hand, go see your horse and pet him. Pleasant conversation. Then put the rope. Pet again. Keep talking nice. After a few minutes, take the halter off and rub his body with it. Then walk.

Now the horse begins to think, "Well! That's all I wanted. "For a while, an alternative to ask your horse to work versus not work and take your halter with you each time to keep you guessing," Is my pet going to tell me I'm purty, or going to work a little ? I guess that is my pet, so it will stay. "

Other reasons horses run from their owners is a lack of training can be good. Another reason is perhaps the horse is getting positive reinforcement at the wrong time. How can that be? A horse can learn to run your head - and if it does put a carrot or a kind of temptation AFTER running.

So how to stop running and catch your horse?

It depends on why the horse races. If the horse is scared then you need to get your confidence back. This is achieved by doing positive things with your horse. When picked up, do not ask to work. Get out your brush and groom him. He'll like that. Would you like to think of being with you as an enjoyable experience - one you want when you see it. This is especially important if you are away from their friends in the flock.

Because the horse feels safe to be with their friends in the flock, must make you feel safe to be removed from the herd. Therefore, when you catch him you can groom and give a good experience to feel safe.

A good practice is to put your horse in a small yard and climb it. Teaching is good to be with you. This will give you a good base to get him later when he is in an open field.

Another neat trick you can do is use lunging to teach your horse to arrive. Do not simply run him in boring circles. Ask him to change direction and pass through obstacles, etc. Make sure you praise when you do well and give it rest. Do not run him on the floor. Doing so will re-think that you do have to work hard.

As you're lunging, the commands used to get it to do what you want him to do. As you and he be good at it, it will respond much better to you in the open field.

A mistake that many people who are chasing the horse to try to catch it. You simply can not. They are very fast and agile. Not only that, it tends to strengthen the instinct of a horse to be prey and they need to get to safety ... it means ... away from you.

Sometimes you can use another horse to help you catch a horse to be friends with the horse that does not want to catch up. If you go to pet a horse it can sometimes get the horse to capture. He may want to cherish too.

Be sure not to punish a horse once you capture it. First, do not know why you got into trouble. Secondly, it is a great way to bring it to NOT want to be with you. If he does not want to be with you, often evade.

HOW TO STOP YOUR HORSE FROM BUCKING

	Can be a great fear of being in a wild horse. If you are a rookie, a bucking horse can almost force you to give up the "owning a horse" dream. But it need not be so. I have read that people who can ride a bucking horse feel it is a good rider. That may be. But that does not mean they are good for training. And training is what we do. Preventing bucking begins when the horse is a colt. You should go to every extent in his training so will be unwilling to money - and that includes preventing bucking if you try. Of course, this does not help if your horse dollars already. Therefore, if your horse dollars then the question is whether or not it is soluble. The answer is: Usually. The first thing to do is try to figure out why dollars. This can be done to try to eliminate the causes. As an example, one of the most common causes is that the pilot bucking punishes the horse's mouth without knowing it. In addition, the horse may be giving aid to the conflict. For example, the pilot can start your horse forward and jerk on the reins to stop him. Then the pilot moves his head about him in turn. As the horse fighting the angry rider boots and tight again. Finally, the horse of dollars. Why? Because it is quite frustrated. Therefore, the fixation of their driving habits that make sense and are provided for your horse is going to solve that problem. If you are a novice rider riding lessons below will help greatly. As a ride, ride relaxed. Concentrate on the feel of his horse. Give the signal for help or do what you want. No more than exaggerated. Give enough signal that he does what he wants then so be it. If you plan to put it in a canter from a walk or trot, or vice versa, then think ahead and do it in a relaxed fluid. No surprise or frighten your horse. Keep you relaxed. A relaxed horse will not buck. Another solution may be changing bits. If you are using a little slow maybe you should try going to a steak. A steak is easier on the mouth of a horse. Still keep in touch with your horse and help you relax. Again a bit of common money horse when the rider asks the horse to gallop or trot. Sometimes a horse galloping money, it is natural for him. It could also occur if the driver signals his horse too suddenly and severely to ask for canter. You see, many people think you have to start your horse galloping hard to get - and when they do, toss in the horse's mouth when he starts. Or, the rider can ride with loose reins for the horse to canter and then jerk his mouth to try to slow the horse down right when he starts galloping. I do not know if you seen it yet, but what is happening here is that the horse is confused. Not only that, it is also hurting the horse. After all, standing in the place of his horse. If asked to gallop and the second he did he felt a painful jolt in the mouth ... can not be a bit annoying? And if you spend all the time, do not you think to yourself, "I have this idiot off my back - that is killing me!" Now let's say you do not know why his wild horse. Suppose your driving habits are good and your horse anyway dollars. Here are some helpful suggestions. First, if your horse dollars, then it is essential not to stop. If he does, he learns that if you leave everything you have to do is money. Very quickly, you have a smart horse who knows that to stop just money. So, instead of stopping, do this. First, rest your arms against your body relaxed and still maintain contact with her horse. In doing so, lean back and lead his horse to move forward. (Using a horse to move forward is a great secret of horse training to help you get your horse's cooperation and obedience.) Due to support his arms, his head of his horse to go up and going forward makes his attempts at bucking hard enough you will stop trying to money. The point is that the horse can not ball as it moves forward with energy. The next step is that you must keep moving the horse forward with energy using your seat and legs until you stop trying to money - be sure to check your speed. Sometimes it is necessary to maintain the head of his horse to stop bucking as he progresses. If you must, then be sure not to pull the head back. Instead, pull up. You do that by extending the arms and pull up. If you have a horse that is opposed whenever he wants, then it must be doubled. The trick is to make the money first if you can. Dual boot it then the same with energy. Then you fold the other side and you boot off it and put it into a trot and have to keep moving. Remember that the horse should slow down the ball. If you can tell your horse is slowing down and preparing to start their money forward and accelerate the pace.

PLANTS THAT ARE BAD FOR HORSES

To clear land for an equestrian facility site in a wooded area, or when horses are allowed to graze in a wooded area, care must be taken to eliminate poisonous plants that are harmful to the horses which they reside. While horses tend to avoid toxic plants because of its taste, it can still be affected by food, especially in sparsely populated areas or in times of drought.

Cornell University lists the following species of plants that are of particular interest to horse owners:

Red maple, Fiddleneck, locoweed Thistle, Yellow Star, Crown Vetch, Datura, Horsetail, Buckwheat, St. John's Wort, Mountain Laurel, Fernando sensitive Cherry, Black, sour cherry, Choke Cherry, Pin Cherry, Bracken Oaks Fern, rhubarb, rhododendron, castor, Black Locust, Grounsels, Common Nightshade, Black Nightshade, nettle, Fishing, Buffalo Bur, Potato or Milo sorghum, Sudan grass, Johnson grass and yew, as well as molds of various kinds in various foods.

In the case of yew and fir, if the entire plant or just a few cuts, a small amount can kill a horse within hours as a result of heart failure. The above list is not exhaustive and there are a number of other toxic plants that can be researched on the Internet.

Equestrian landscape architecture and site planning must take this factor into account to ensure that landscapers eliminate dangerous plants during installation. Landscape Architect should walk the space provided, along with the installer of landscape and verification of dangerous plants and mark them for deletion. In specifying proposed planting locations for the equestrian site, the landscape architect must assure that toxic plants are not placed in a position where horses can come into contact with them.

Landscape architects must be licensed by the State in which the practice and are often members of the American Society of Landscape Architects, ASLA.

Landscape architecture encompasses the analysis, planning, design, management and administration of natural and built environments. The national professional association is the American Society of Landscape Architects, based in Washington. ASLA full members have graduated from a landscape architecture program accredited, have obtained 7 years of education and / or professional experience and licensed by the state. In Michigan, as well as all other States, a period of three (3) day LARE examination administered by the Council of Landscape Architectural Registration Boards is required to spend to get the state license.

Landscape designers do not have these professional credentials. Many state and local governments require designs to be stamped registration status landscape architect.

As social landscape architect in the State of Michigan and chief architect of Sexton Ennett Design, LC, a landscape architectural firm in southeast Michigan, I am particularly aware of poisonous plants. See: http: / / Www.sexton-ennett.com.

I am also a breeder of champion Oldenburg warm blood horse sport and am sensitive to issues of poisonous plants related to equestrian facilities. View: http://www.markimfarms.com.

Enjoy your equestrian activities, while ensuring the protection of the health of their horses. An ounce of prevention is all you need.

HOW TO GET THE HORSE TO TRUST YOU

It's much nicer to ride a horse that trusts you rather than one that does. But getting a horse to trust that it is a difficult task, especially if the horse has a history of past abuses.

In fact, you can make friends with a horse who is shy and reticent, but it has a history of past abuses. Make sure you approach the horse on the left. And remember to show him what you have in your hands - even if it is a hoof pick, to be used in it.

The second thing to remember is to always wear tight clothing. Loose clothing flaps in the breeze and can unnerve horse. And once been afraid, it is hard to do what you think. Its uncomfortable for both the owner and the horse, if there is an element of fear and mistrust between the two.

In short not to do the horse from any activity which is not believed capable of doing. The horse has to have confidence in you, when asked to jump or jog along a path unknown. If you ask him to jump and he does not lose the confidence that you instantly. He was frightened to take any commands from you next time. So, instead trying to build confidence that slowly and gradually. Practice with it, is on a wide and easy road or jumping over obstacles easier. This will develop confidence in you. Never do anything you do is beyond their capabilities.

Earning the trust of a horse that has been abused, it is almost impossible. However, with patience, can evoke some confidence at the end.

Having your horse if a soft voice and soothing support. Do this before asking you to complete a task. Never is key to your horse, demanding to get their attention. And never try to ride it before you get your confidence. Relieve him of any fear or mistrust in the first place. When used to his presence and his voice, then approach him. Always remember that a horse is afraid it is very difficult to handle, so never force anything on him. Instead, I offer some food he likes. Shortly after something because you enjoyed a few times, gently touches his nose be your friend.

You know you have reached an understanding with your horse, if you find that your horse is what allows movement. However, you should never ride a horse mistreated, without the aid of a horse trainer, who has had experience with abused horses. These horses are calm when they are on the ground, but starts to panic when trying to assemble.

WHY VACCINATE MY HORSE?

What do you do when you vaccinate your horse? When to vaccinate horses deliberately exposing a portion of an organism causing the disease or exposure to disease-causing organism, such as bacteria or virus of a disease. This is done in a very small dose. We do this in order to provoke an immune response in the horse that the horse is expected to protect the future of that particular disease. Generally, this is how vaccines work.

Is a100% guarantee that the horse never develop the disease? No. But if a horse contracts the disease who were vaccinated against is usually a clearer case without vaccination. Chances of recovery are much higher with the vaccine than without it. Vaccines should also be stored, handled and administered. Not doing so may impair the effectiveness of the vaccine.

Here are some of the diseases they vaccinate horses for:

Tetanus (Lockjaw): Tetanus occurs when a specific bacterium enters a horse like a deep wound. Such as tetanus, grows and produces a toxin attacks the nervous system of horses. Tetanus is fatal.

Encephalitis: Horses can be attacked by three types of encephalitis, Eastern, Western and Venezuela. Mosquitoes are carriers of this virus. Horses are infected by the bite of infected mosquitoes (usually found in the states near the border with Mexico). Encephalitis infects the brain of horses. If they survive may have permanent defects as a result. Encephalitis is potentially fatal.

Rabies: It infects the nervous system with a fatal infection. Rabies is caused by a bite from an infected animal (such as bats, raccoons or skunks). Rabies was not diagnosed in a horse during a period of time, and can actually transmit the infection to humans. This can occur through contact with bodily fluids skin (a cut on the hand).

Potomac horse fever: Generally limited to certain specific geographical areas (along the Potomac River) and in temperate areas and near rivers. This disease is characterized by depression, fever, diarrhea and founder. Ask your veterinarian or local extension agent for advice in your area.

rotavirus diarrhea: cause cuts, diarrhea potentially life-threatening in young foals. Rotavirus appears is kept by the mother (or passably another horse). The horses pass the virus can not develop problems, but simply pass it on. Pregnant mares can be vaccinated then pass antibodies to their offspring in the first milk (colostrum). Ask your veterinarian about the availability of this vaccine.

Influenza: This shows how severe cold symptoms and high fever as a risk for developing bacterial pneumonia. There can be periods when the virus mutates, causing epidemics to break. Vaccines are not completely effective in preventing the disease since the virus can mutate easily. The vaccine can still reduce the severity of symptoms. Horses that are at higher risk for influenza are very old, very young horses under stress, travel horses, and riding in the box, where there is horse traffic.

Botulism: This is caused by the toxin of a bacterium related to that cause tetanus. Horses are very sensitive to it and many may die from this disease or complications from the disease. If this disease is contracted, treatment can be expensive.

Rhinopneumonitis: Also known as the "Rhinoceros." This disease is the "common cold." The rhino virus can invade the paralysis of horses that causes the nervous system, and can also cause abortion. Like the flu, the risk factors are the same. Every two months throughout pregnancy mares should be vaccinated.

Strangles: not done routinely strangles vaccination is recommended for horses at high risk of exposure. The risk of side effects of intramuscular vaccine can be up to 30% of the vaccine. This can include fever, loss of appetite, local swelling, muscle stiffness and abscesses at the site of vaccination. The vaccines usually provide reliable protection of critical illness, but only for a few months. Does not prevent the disease altogether. Unless there is known contamination on site, shipping horses often or a lot of traffic in and out of the farm, due to side effects and the limited time that is effective, it must weigh the benefits of mumps vaccination status or not. That said, there is one type of vaccine that drowns a spray in the nose of the horse. intranasal vaccine has a low incidence of side effects. The protection is more or less the same. It is unclear whether the intranasal vaccine for pregnant mares receive the necessary antibodies in the blood (the protection of breeding with colostrum). It would be advisable to use the vaccine intramuscularly with mares around foaling.

West Nile: This virus has caused many deaths in horses in recent years in the United States. It is transmitted by infected mosquitoes. This virus infects the central nervous system and causes symptoms of encephalitis. The signs of encephalitis in horses include loss of appetite and depression, as well as any combination of the following symptoms - fever, weakness or paralysis of hind limbs, mouth twitching, impaired vision, incoordination, head pressing, aimless wandering , convulsions, inability to swallow, circling, hyperexcitability, or coma. It is recommended to vaccinate for this disease, but avoid vaccinating pregnant mares in late pregnancy. If you have a pregnant mare, consult your veterinarian for a better time for your vaccinations for your area.

What diseases should vaccinate your horse? That depends. You, on the advice of your veterinarian or local extension office will have to make that decision. Getting the best, updated information from these sources will help you choose wisely.

PICKING THE PROPER SADDLE FOR YOUR HORSE

Ten Tips for a seat assembly

1. Clearance wither The throat of a saddle must clear the cross, but not so narrow as to pinch the horses back.

The ideal distance should be 2-3 fingers between the saddle pommel (throat) and the cross horses. Anything less is risky and if there is no office of the chair should not be used.

2.To check you can look down the throat to see the light at the other end, put the saddle on the horse, cinched, but sweatshirts or pads and then see if you have this office.

3. Gullet width - The width of the throat (when viewed from underneath the saddle), should be about three inches wide all the way up the handle of the tile.

4. Balance Saddle - The seat has to sit right, ie not falling over the front or back. To check this, once you have put the saddle on the horse, see if when the rider sits in the chair is sitting flat.

The balance of the chair must be reviewed again by one person on earth with the rider on the horse and the horse standing on level ground.

5. Saddle seat position - seat of the chair should be positioned so that the rider is placed over the horse's center of balance.

The location of the horse's center of balance depends on a combination of speed and collection of the horses. If the horse is standing or walking the center of gravity is just behind the heart girth and below the cross.

If the horse at a trot or gallop, the center of balance moves forward and if at a gallop or jump the center of balance moves further forward. If the horse is very collected the center of balance will be back, regardless of the way, that if the horse is in a broader framework.

6. The length of the chair - A chair should not go beyond the 18th thoracic vertebra, which binds to the horses of the last rib, this is beyond the lumbar spine, which is the weakest part of the horses back . If you feel the ribs on your horse and the work of your hand back until you can feel the last rib, then run your fingers up the rib to get to the spine - which is the point at which the chair should not go further.

7. "These panels should be smooth and even contact along the horses spine to distribute the rider's weight evenly. An irregular shape increases the pressure points and pain.

With saddles used when fitting seat, make sure that the panels are still in good condition and is not necessary to re-flocking etc.

8. The movement of a chair - When driving, the seat should not move backward or forward or rock up and down. To help see if this is happening in the installation of seat, it helps if you have someone standing on the floor, watching to see if you move the seat as walk, trot and gallop with them.

9. The size of the tree - the tree size, which determines the width of the chair and the height of the throat is one of the most important factors when assembling chairs.

A tree that is too narrow, it's a problem that a too wide, and that will push the saddle points of the tree on the horse again, and eventually lead to muscle wasting / atrophy, in the long run will lead to emptying of the horse again on both sides of the backbone of the entire shoulder area.

It can be easily tested by observing the pattern of sweat from the horses back after work. The pattern of sweat even have to sweat over the panels, with the exception of points of points of trees, which will round dry spots in the area of sweat.

10. The placement of a chair - When fitting a saddle chair should be placed two to four fingers behind the blade end of the horse.

THE BENEFITS OF HORSEBACK RIDING

Horseback riding, also known as horseback riding or horse riding, looks like the practice of riding. It is the sport or pastime of sitting on a pony and control as it moves along. The horses are ridden for practical working purposes and for therapeutic purposes. They are also used in competitive sports and recreational activities.

Horses are domesticated and are used as work animals. Used for police work, for controlling herd animals on a farm or circus entertainment. Many techniques are used to train a horse depends on what the horse is used.

Horses are also used in competitive sports like diving, endurance riding, horse racing, ride, rodeo, and so on. Besides also used in recreational activities such as fox hunting, trail riding or hacking.

Millions more are even made for the provision of services such as horse breeding or breeding of horses.

There are many varieties of riding, but the two most well-liked horseback riding are English and Western riding. Western riding, however, is a riding style that evolved from the ranching and warfare traditions.

trick riding is also a kind of horse pony, but it is more than one technique. Originally developed for working cowboys and eventually became double designed more for the operation of practicality.

Before, horseback riding is often used for agricultural work, transportation and war. But now it is being used as a pony horse healing equine activity helped riding or adaptation. There are several pony rides healing programs developed and used by medical professionals authorized to treat different disabilities may be physical, emotional, social or cognitive.

People who have an emotional disability, social or mental, learning to build relationships through interaction with horses. The trust and loyalty that these shows teach horses to increase these characteristics. Finally, they will be able to establish meaningful relationships with people.

Pony riding is an activity of society. Before a horse can be ridden or care, the person must be willing to communicate effectively with him first.

He also teaches people to cope with their fear, and adjust sudden eventualities such as horses, like all other animals, are unpredictable nature. This is why the basic understanding and some considerations on the behavior of horse are paramount.

Lisa Blackstone is an equestrian and owns and operates Arabian horse training and breeding business. She has a niche clientele of owners of horse farms and training centers. For more information about horses and http://horseridinglessonsguide.com/ http://www.horsebackridinglessonguide.com/ visit.

CARING FOR HORSE AND BARN

There are many alternatives for the construction of a stable or a barn for horses. You may prefer modular horse barn, shed row barns, horse barns pre-built or prefabricated. barn can also be custom made according to your choice. Anyone with basic knowledge and ability, with time to spare can build a barn with storage space. You can get equipment barn in accordance with the needs and custom build your barn.

Pole barns have been in use since the idea of the stables as a haven for the horse was conceived. Since the modern tools and materials not previously available, this was the easiest way to build a barn. The basics of building barns that was to bury the posts deep into the earth and the use of animal skins to form the roof and sides. At present, steel or other light skin substitute materials of animal origin. This type of barn was cost effective and environmentally friendly.

wooden barns were decided. These conventional farms had good insulation properties and protection of animals unkind weather. Besides the wooden barns were strong and mixed with the natural environment of the field. wooden barn kits are also available in various sizes and designs, and have window frames and other necessary items. However, they had a big drawback. Were not protected against fire.

Prefabricated houses are a good choice. Steel is used in prefabricated barns in exchange for barn wood to make secure and robust. prefabricated sheds are treated by termites, leeches, parasites and other organisms, making them more hygienic. To be fire resistant, these barns are safer. Prefabricated houses are less expensive and less time. However, the construction site and farm plan are essential in this type of construction and the manufacturer will be delivered to the exact dimensions and measures for the manufacture of a barn.

Upon receiving the prefabricated sections in place can set the barn over the weekend with the help of workers engaged in riding stables experts. Be careful of the ceiling high enough that the horses are comfortable and slip-resistant flooring to prevent animals from slipping and injuring themselves. rubber mats and sand can prevent this accident.

Provide windows for ventilation and normal light to filter in, but make sure they are covered with bars and wire mesh to protect the horses of the disturbance outside the birds or other animals. Prevent electrical contact with horses. Use feeding tube wall wide support for the storage of water and keep the batteries enough hay for the horses to feed in peace.

These types of barns offer peace of mind to the owner and are a better choice for the sake of their horses.

HORSEBACK RIDING SAFETY

Your horse should be taken seriously to succeed. colors of horses are very important to some people: some enjoy a black horse, while others enjoy a white horse, while others prefer a gray horse, or want to know if the breed of horse originated in Czechoslovakia. However, there is no time to daydream of the days with his wooden horse, horse pictures or photos of horses, which now is a time to think about training a horse, horse, horse safety and care the horse. Many people think of riding as an activity for children, and who has never owned a horse as a child, but may have had the adventure of being taken to riding like a child on the beach. The truth is that riding is for everyone, and you can fulfill your dream of riding at any age. There are, for example, live horse racing, horse jumping, dressage and cross-country, many areas of driving that may interest you.

When not focused on riding, soon discover that there's always more to learn, as tactics and equipment for the horse, and how these, for example, can improve the performance of your horse. However, the importance of safety around your horse must be paramount at all times. There is something for everyone, and you should feel comfortable with what you choose as a discipline on horseback. A gift for a horse lover's dream that his horse is well trained and happy - easy to handle - a horse who likes to be ridden, but there are also wild horses. Wild horses are a challenge where avid riders may want to deepen further, as all aspects of riding is an exciting sport. Obviously you want to spend many hours working with your horse so he understands what you want from him. It's a good idea to learn to cope with the tasks of preparation of horses and horse tack. The rewards are great when you take the time to address these basic driving techniques and horse care. You will be a position to enjoy their leisure trips in all its forms.

There is a book or two horses out there for knowledge, as well as videos of how to get started riding. Learn from videos or books is fun and effort, but you can combine this with what it feels like to ride your horse. You also want to spend time just being with your horse, and the development of an idea of your horse. This is the time to bond with your horse to understand the signals that the horse comes through their behavior and temperament. Union can make your ride smoother. However, while you're riding your horse, either solitary or company there are several things you will want to do to ensure that it remains safe and healthy, so you can continue your journey for a long time. A positive attitude is very important. Even a well trained horse can be unpredictable.

One thing you have to be sure when you are riding your horse, is that we are never asking too much of it. You must be sure that it is always comfortable doing what I ask, and we must be sure you are comfortable with what he does. This is very important because if you do not feel comfortable going to find you and your horse can be forced to take risks, and it will not be good for either. It can be very dangerous, and what you want to be sure I never have a horse do something it is not comfortable.

Make sure you are riding your horse that the computer you are using is strong and not likely to crumble, and make sure you are able to place the saddle horses and other horse equipment with him, so you know they are done correctly and not likely to hurt anything.

Once you take control of your horse, you need to be aware of the risks and hazards, including falls. No need for these things that put you off because you are focused and not underestimate the importance of safety. Learn the correct way from the beginning gives you an added advantage of having a lot of fun with taking unnecessary risks.

Finally, when you are riding your horse, make sure it is safe and be careful where you go, looking at the ground to ensure that you are not doing anything that could be dangerous for your horse or yourself. Always make sure that they are not taking your horse somewhere that is very discouraging that may be hurt. With a little patience, your horse and riding skills to shine through.

HOOVES AND NUTRITION

hoof growth and regeneration is much more than an "inside out" process. The helmet must receive nutrients from the blood to stimulate growth and repair. The wall of the hoof is a dermal tissue, like skin and hair. dermal tissue is considered an organ, and is one of the hungriest when it comes to nutrients. Like elsewhere in the body of a horse, the hoof is a living structure that depends on the nutrients provided by blood to their growth, strength and repair. Great hooves formulas based on research by a number of university study in the last 20 years. These studies showed that biotin supplementation significantly improves the condition of the hooves. Biotin is a B vitamin that stimulates the production of keratin in the hull plates and coronary band, strengthening and improving the periople, hoof wall, sole, frog and white line. Like all B vitamins, biotin is water soluble and not stored in the body. It should be every day. Studies and emphasized the social benefits of an ECTS-based biotin supplementation of 12-15 mg / day for horseback 1,000 pounds to improve the integrity of the hull within 3-5 months and has maximum benefits in one year supplementation:

• Increased tensile strength of hoof wall all

• Less cracking and broken horn

• Signi cannot improvement of hardness and thickness of the hulls

• Improving the condition of the white line

• Improves hoof growth after 90 days

• The horses with tender feet moved more freely and against regardless

• After 6-9 months of additional improvement periople stronger, better hull surface of the horn, the depth of the heel and the shape of the hull, and easier to fit with the strongest helmets to work.

Much more than just biotin. . .

Contrary to popular opinion, biotin is no magic solution to all problems of the hull. Hooves healthy growth is a complex process that requires a therapeutic formula of high levels of biotin, methionine, lysine, methylsulfonylmethane (MSM), vitamin B-6 and ratios of chelated minerals. Methionine and MSM are natural sources of important nutrients having organic sulfur, and are key players with biotin. The structure of the hull of the protein contains large amounts of sulfur. These sulfur-bearing nutrients to stimulate production and improve the fabric of keratin in the hoof wall development. Keratin is necessary for skin, hair and hull integrity, giving it the strength and toughness of these tissues important protein. Sulfur is often marginal or deficient in a normal diet when the rapid growth of the hull is happening. The inclusion of a sufficient quantity of these sulfur-bearing components is critical to help the efficiency of biotin supplementation to optimize hull integrity.

THE BITS

The bit is really the key to the horse. In considering the partnership between rider and horse, the bit is fundamental to the success of that relationship and the search for appropriate bit for the job can be a challenge, often achieved more by luck than judgment.

By correlating what is seen in the behavior of your horse with the variety of unusual characteristics, one can become more confident with the little you choose, but horse perfectly categorize bits and its specific role is difficult. Many features horse bits are often mixed together to form new varieties, however, for our purposes in this first article we will create some general definitions that form the basis for our future discussions.

Snaffles are what are called bits of direct pressure. When the pilot pulls on the reins, the force is applied directly to the bit. This style of bit is particularly effective when training a new horse, but can be used at any time.

Curb bits are bits of leverage. The physical construction of the drill is designed to generate influence and pressure is multiplied by the pilot. The longer the stem length or cheek bit more force will be transferred. Best used in the hands of a more experienced pilot who has developed a touch controlled.

Combos. The combination of pressure and leverage is possible with some bits and pieces as Pelhams gag.

To complement these basic principles of control of horse there is a variety of attributes little, giving great flexibility to the rider skills aimed at addressing issues with your horse. As an example the grooves 3-in-1 bit offers a series of combinations of features. Trenches is popular among pilots with a strong horse. This control force is applied through a stop action and you can vary the choice of a specific stem length.

You can also choose a different physical composition of the bit of copper example, offers an effect that stimulates the horse to salivate and can lead a horse to be more sensitive to the action bits.

On the other hand a bit of rubber is a little softer and often a good idea for the younger horse, and learning to properly respond to the will of the rider and the action of the bit.

A little louder, then it may be necessary if the rubber bit is not allowing sufficient control, as when the horse is bigger or more cunning. Having said that, when the horse works well with soft bit does not feel obliged to change as the horse ages. As the saying goes "if it is not broke do not fix it" is often a good philosophy with horses.

Switch off the port in the bit is another variable that might be considered. The height of the port can allow more space for the tongue, but can cause more pressure on the horse's mouth when the reins are pulled. So in this case very careful assessment of their needs is recommended, to avoid damaging your horse.

To summarize this first part, a physician can control the horse with the direct or indirect force, and the bit can be designed to provide greater or lesser extent depending on the strength of the horse. The behavior of the horse, when the bit can be mitigated by adjustments to the shape of the mouth piece and even their composition, such as copper or rubber.

In our next article in this series we will see some typical behavioral problems with horses that can be addressed by exploiting the different ways recently. However, remember that your horse is an animal that deserves love and respect and should not be simply apply the general rules prescriptively. Your horse can not speak, but he is certainly trying to help you solve your problem.

HORSE COLIC

horse colic is often thought and misrepresented as a disease. More exactly said, colic in horses referred to a syndrome with multiple causes that lead to abdominal pain.

In 1998, $ 115 million was spent by horse owners horse colic surgery offered their horses in the United States. Even with the best care for 10-11 percent of all horses coming down with a form of colic horses die from it. Colic remains, along with aging, the number one cause of death in horses.

Oddly enough, the occurrence of colic in horses seems to be a specific race. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, in a study published by the National Monitoring USDA Animal Health System (NAHMS) thoroughbred showed the highest incidence of colic, "pure blood were more likely to develop colic [10. 9 / 100 horses per year] that stock horse breeds (Quarter Horses, Paints, Appaloosas) [3.5colics/100 horses per year], or any other horse [2.9 colics/100 horses a year.] "**

There are signs of history speak of several horse colic symptoms and responsible horse owners should take the time to familiarize yourself with these markers recognized in the industry. colic symptoms come in combination and a single occurrence of any symptom, not necessarily a true indicator of horse colic. Colic in horses can be identified when a horse becomes abnormal head to look at his flank area, present an abnormal degree of kicking on the ground, kicking or biting of the abdominal area, extending its position in the Just as urinationrestless with the horse constantly seeking or establishing an abnormal apparent desire to roll on the floor, sitting on a dog position, as when he rises back up to his feet and bowed his head down when standing in same way a horse does when he drinks, the apparent lack of animal dung in the room, sweating, rapid breathing, an elevated pulse 60 beats per minute or more, especially lethargy.

There are seven categories of colic and each category can have several sub-categories. Each category and subcategory can have its own unique set of symptoms.

impaction colic refers to a real blockage in the intestinal tract and is most often found in the large intestine. In most cases of colic impaction of the resolution is easily achieved, however, in a small number of cases, impaction colic can point to a major problem.

gas colic refers to a sudden accumulation of gas more commonly in the large intestine. Ss gas builds up the gut walls are forced to stretch causing pain to the animal.

spasmodic colic occurs when bowel contractions suddenly increased frequency and intensity.

twisted intestinal colic, also known as displacement, volvulus, torsion or cramping is a literal displacement of the intestinal tract. A portion of the intestine moves to an abnormal position and in doing so, sometimes turns on itself. This form of colic is very serious and often fatal. The surgery is often necessary for this form of horse colic to a satisfactory conclusion.

Enteritis or colitis is a form of colic in horses referred to the presence of inflammation in the small intestine (enteritis) and in the large intestine (colitis). These are serious conditions that require veterinary care and ongoing medical treatment.

gastric distension or rupture may occur when a horse gorges itself on grain, food or other substance that tends to swell in the stomach. The horse's small stomach and overload due to the inability of a sick horse, breaks his stomach. When the stomach is broken, death is inevitable.

The remaining category of colic falls under the concept of "cause unknown." In this category, colic can be a secondary indication of a larger problem, or it may be a form of colic in horses caused by a very special set of circumstances.

horse colic should never be overlooked or ignored. If the horse owner is not familiar with colic in horses, then the presence of a person with knowledge is essential. Colic in horses can often be prevented through proper management of horses.

SUNBURN AND YOUR HORSE

As human beings we are aware of the danger of staying in the sun long term. We know that if we go out in the sun too long, we risk becoming a nice tan to an ugly sunburn. Besides being unattractive and painful we are also aware that sunburns can cause skin cancer. We use all kinds of tricks of sunscreen for lightweight covers to prevent

skin frying.

Because they are large and appear to be infallible (a trait that all horse owners know it's an illusion) that the effect is often forgotten that the sun has on our horses.

Horses, like people, can sunburn. Sunburn is more common in horses with a layer of light colored hair, such as Appaloosa, Lipizzans, Paints, Pintos, Andalusian, and grays. Horse owners who own horses with white noses and a lot of pale skin around the eyes are often the treatment of equine partners for sunburn. A sudden change in hormones, like horses that have been bred, can cause a horse to develop sunburn. Although dark horses are often irritated by sunburn often dark hair bleached. In some cases of severe burns is thought to lead to liver damage.

Horse owners should be aware that some medications can also cause sunburn in horses. Tetracycline is a drug that has been known to cause sunburn in some horses.

equine sunburn looks like human sunburn. The skin turns an angry tone of pink or a violent red. If the skin is left untreated long enough it starts to chap and crack. Horses suffering from severe sunburn blistering start. Sunburn can cause hair loss.

The treatment of sunburned eyes is quite simple. Each owner has to do is purchase a fly mask for their horse. When using a fly mask is very important to ensure that the mask is kept clean flight. Just use a hose and spray to remove dirt and grime in the eyes of the mask. After rinsing the mask fly hang in the sun to dry.

Some fly masks have an extension that protects the tip of the nose to get sunburned. If you do not have a mask covering the nose flying horses all you need do is rub the horses nose with sunscreen that you can buy at your local pharmacy.

Some horse owners, especially those who are interested in showing, try to avoid sun damage to their coat to keep horses indoors during daylight hours when the sun is most harmful. Other owners prefer to keep their horses covered with a lightweight blanket or be fly sheet to protect your horses coat. One of the reasons some owners prefer a horse covered with a kept inside is that they feel that keeping a horse stalled and completely free of sunlight can lead to depression.

HORSE TACK

	Steps to turn a horse, or how to saddle your horse is how to put the team on his horse. Why do horses bite when the circle and what it means to "turn" the word means, anyway? The steps for how to turn your horse - Capture and ensure your horse or pony - Make sure they are clean, especially in areas where your horse course will touch your pony or horse - His pony or horse's hooves should be clean before turning his horse - The chair is the first - the circle must be secure so the seat does not slide, but at this stage do not have to be adjusted. If you tighten the girth too, at a time can make your horse or pony sour and teach them to bite when you make the circle. - Set any other device connected to the chair. This could be a breastplate, martingale or rump. - If horse has boots or bandages, they can go - Tighten the circumference of a hole on each side (if necessary) - Then make sure you have the helmet and are ready to mount - Tighten the strap one hole (if necessary) - Undo the halter or halter and put on the flange - Final inspection of girth and other tack and tack you have finished your horse! - Good Trip! While you're riding, consider this What is the tactic? Where does this word originate? For riders, their tactic is all equipment used for horseback riding. This includes his saddle and bridle, a bridle and other extras like the breastplate and martingale. To maintain its course in the tack room. And when you put your course on your horse to be toned up! Others call his team, short for horse gear, that means all the bits and pieces needed to assemble. What do they call? Tack, equipment, saddlery? Do you know where the course originated word when it comes to horses? Do you 'sticky' or 'saddle when you ride? Do you have a 'back room' to keep your tactic / harness? One tactic is a type of small sharp nails used in the manufacture of saddles. Is there any connection between this course and tacking up the term? Attempt at the seam stitching is great for keeping things in place until it is sewn. Is the course in equestrian terms have nothing to do with sewing? One tactic is part of a sail on a sailboat. And touch is what you do when you navigate to change direction in the wind. What has that to do with horses? Anything? Is it all a mystery to me. Tell me what you know. Or what you thought about using the word tactic.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR HORSE IMMUNE TO NOISE

Horses scare or shy lot can be very dangerous not only for themselves but for others as well. Due to the fact that horses are prey animals with a flight or fight response to perceived threats, which makes them prone to flee from the objects they see as a threat. This leads to excessive shame usually flowering and has a horse problem on their hands. The offending object could be something as harmless as a trash can or a plastic bag, but the horse is an object of fear and wants to get as far from it as possible!

There are some things you can do to desensitize your horse. This training is ideal horse problem started when the horse is young and educated and to ensure a safe horse ghost. Start by lunging the horse for a few minutes to allow it to work out any excess energy. Leave a harness and lead rope on the horse and slowly approach him with a pillow or blanket old chair that allows you to smell. Work at a pace horse, and if ghosts or take a step back, re-enter the blanket slowly until you feel comfortable to have around him.

Once you are more comfortable around the blanket, you can start moving it around and moving slowly. This will help to desensitize the horse against flapping objects. The horse is very likely to feel uncomfortable and may even shy, so be patient and work with him until he is accustomed to having the rug is turned toward him.

The next step is to touch the horse with a blanket swaying gently on her back and move around the body. Once the horse accepts the blanket over his head that is half-way! Place the blanket at his feet to help desensitize him to things under his feet, this is an essential part of the exercise of desensitization. That's it, reward him profusely for a job well done!

The following exercise desensitization should try is to use a soft rope and work with him in the same way as it did with the shawl or blanket. This teaches the horse to tolerate a moving rope around his legs and body. Desensitization of a horse to this kind of feeling can be invaluable if the horse tack fails and has the pieces of tack to beat around. This makes riding much safer in dangerous situations when broken tack. Pull the string on the ground and between the legs of horses and belly until they are no longer afraid of it. If the horse moves the rope around his face and head, which has successfully completed this exercise.

Last but certainly not least is the plastic bag. Many horses, many are afraid of plastic bags and this exercise will help eliminate the fear of plastic bags on his horse. Show the bag to his horse and let him smell, and then tied to a long lunge whip and wave around while holding his horse in the string very long process. The horse will inevitably try to shy away from the scary object. Shake the bag around the horse until you feel comfortable to have around, once this happens, touch the bag around the body. Move around your body and under her belly, when allowed to touch his head with it, you're done.

Work at the pace of his horse and always end your training session on a positive note and rhythm. Do not push your horse in a difficult situation because it can cause irreparable psychological damage. Do these exercises regularly to ensure that the horse is still numb.

HORSE AFRAID OF WATER

Horses that have a fear of water are a common problem. In young horses it is understandable if they have had encounters with water before. For older horses, the fear may have been caused by a bad fall near a river or lake. Here are some tips horse practical training to help overcome fear of water horse:

1. Horses can not see directly below them. Could help loosen the reins, give the head and allow a good look at what is being asked to cross. At this point, it is assumed that there is enough trust between you and your horse, and he believes that asks you to do something that might hurt.

2. If you're with a group of riders, another horse with more experience first intersection. Horses are herd animals, and generally follow the leader. If you are riding alone, might consider going down and that took him through the water. If he trusts you and sees you enter the water, which will be after you.

3. Before riding through the water, you may want to train to be safer, but unknown objects on the ground, such as blankets, mats, pieces of canvas or rubber. Watch them carefully, then put everything. If you trust that led through, assembly and test ride it through. This way you can gradually increase your confidence that was not allowed to step anywhere unsafe.

4. You can also try to make puddles on the ground, if possible, and allow him to cross the larger pools and larger. Always pat encourage and praise to let him know he is doing a good job.

As always, patience is the most important aspect of horse training!

UNDERSTANDING YOUR HORSE'S BODY LANGUAGE

As in all relationships, communication is also important in the training of horses. Assuming that a man is smarter than a beast, should be to make an effort to listen and understand what your horse is trying to say. Of course, horses can not speak, but they create sounds and body language. As a horse trainer, you should know what these sounds and body language means. To give you some advice on training horses on this topic, check out the different sounds of horses and body language are described below.

Neigh. This is the most popular appetizers sound and this could mean that the horse is nervous or confident. This sound is usually accompanied by body language. If the horse moves restlessly while neighing could be nervous about something. If not, the horse feels safe. If a group of horses neighing is all at the same time, it means they see something strange.

Puffing. Usually, this means that the horse is afraid of something. Or it could mean that the horse is excited.

Neigh. This is the sound created when the horse's mouth is closed. This means that the horse is happy to see you.

Sigh. Like people, horses breath, too. And as for people, sigh means the horse is relaxed and feeling calm.

Head up / down. An upturned head means the horse is tense while a head bowed low means that the horse is very calm and relaxed. One of the horse training tips most important is to teach your horse to bend his head.

Relaxed ears up. The ears also says much about the behavior of a horse. Up or pinned ears means disobedience, while relaxed ears could mean that the horse is listening and is probably due.

These horse training tips are important for you to be able to communicate well with your horse.

HORSE TRAINING,REIGNING

Reining Horse Training is very important when competition is close. Basically requires that horses who are attuned and sensitive to their riders. It also depends on the skills of the pilots to develop relationships with their horses. Normally, there are certain breeds that are selected to participate in competitions due to their capabilities. And let slip is a major maneuvers reigning horse training needs to practice. There are also several things that a coach should be aware of when training your horse, if you want to succeed.

For example, the position of a rider and how it works could affect the reins to his horse when it stops. These factors, however, could be controlled to change the overall appearance and the success of the maneuver to stop a horse sliding stop. And the way the driver signals his horse to stop and how shoes can also be controlled by stop horse training. On the other hand, the track and the horse's natural ability to stop can not be controlled. The speed of the horse before the stop can not be controlled. For example uncontrollable factors, practice and learning strategies are the coach could do to improve their success rates.

Reining Horse Training is vital to help reduce the risk of wounded horses, and even if you have the skills to slide stops. However, it is also important to practice good reasons. wrong reasons could injure horses and they just make a stop difficult. Therefore, it is recommended to loosen the soil by adding chips of it. This is to improve and make it easier to slide. However, the coach should ask your horse to slip when it is accelerating because its body is more prone to slippage at this time.

THE BASICS

Horses are sensitive animals, and the world of the horse's health can be a complicated one. There are a number of diseases and ailments to which horses are prone, including equine colic equine encephalitis, equine equine influenza and mumps. It is important that every horse owner to immediately establish a relationship with a veterinarian specializing in equine medicine. It is important to establish a vaccination schedule to prevent equine diseases more common, and always check your own horse for signs of disease. proper horse health care is the responsibility of every horse owner if the horse is stabled at home or raised in a barn. If the horse gets into a stable care model, the stable owner can be notified if he or she feels that your horse is sick. A good health care of the horse is even more important in a boarding situation, since many of equine diseases are easily transmissible serious.



In many cases, it is obvious that a horse is not feeling well. Signs of ill health of the horse include not eating, drinking and not as lethargic. In other cases, however, signs of the disease will be more subtle, so it is important for the horse owner to remain alert to changes in the horse's attitude and behavior.



One of the most severe conditions on the health of the horse is the equine colic, and many new horse owners are unaware of the seriousness of this condition. equine colic is much more than just a stomach ache, and the composition of the equine digestive system can cause the stomach to twist, resulting in serious complications or even death. A colicky horse can roll in place and be suffering from obvious pain. If the horse is down, it is essential for the owner to make the horse stand, and to keep walking. Equine colic is a medical emergency, and it is essential that the veterinarian is called at once.



Ask your veterinarian for advice on how to prevent your horse from getting sick. Here are some basic measures of horse care:



quality food, give your horse a balanced diet. Ask your veterinarian about the types of its food needs of horses and if you need supplements or not.



Freshwater: the horse needs plenty of water.



Salt or mineral block, ensure that your horse has a mineral block available at all times.



Shelter: provide good shelter for your horse to be protected from the elements. No horse can stay on top of health unless there is a clean, dry and safe to get in and out of the cold and rain. While it is true that wild horses do not need such protection, the modern horse is far from their wild cousins.



Hoof Care: Keep an eye on his horse. Beware of thrushes, cracks and objects sticking to the sole. Visit the farrier every 6 to 8 weeks.



vaccination schedule, ask your veterinarian for more information.



Visit the vet for a checkup at least once a year.



First Aid: Buy a first aid kit for horses and ask your vet what you can do in the event of an emergency.



Deworming: ask your vet for advice on how to treat infestations.



Case Cleaning: one aspect of horse health is not often shared with prospective horse owners is the need to clean the sheath of male horses horse. The male horse has special needs for this type of cleaning, and it is important to consult your veterinarian for advice on how to do it properly.



Beyond basic horse care health needs, a number of excellent ways to make healthier horses, including enzymes for horses, equine supplements, equine chiropractor, equine massage and a number of joint attention, nutrition products and equine therapy. If you need to lose weight a fat horse, or provide soothing joint care to a larger horse with arthritis, it is likely that there is a product on the market for this purpose.

HOOF TRIMMING

Hairline (coronary band), level (parallel to ground) when viewed from the front. A slope of 30 degrees downward toward the heel of one foot weighted when viewed from the side.

Heels low enough to provide a 30 degree hairline slope when viewed from either side. This is usually under the heels cut to a smooth surface at the headquarters of corn. Each of the feet can be a different measure in inches. All horses are not the same! Heel height when measured most often fall between 1 "and 1.5" when measured from the hairline to the top of buttress.

The rooms picked up (floating) to be a bit passive to the ground.

The toes are often too long in domestic horses. Do not worry about the angles of the feet. Toe when viewed from the bottom of the foot (solar light) should extend beyond the apex frog more than 1 / 2 the length of the frog. In other words, the frog measured from its widest point in the heel to the tip would be equal to about 2 / 3 of the total length of the bottom of the foot and 1 / 3 of the total length is just beyond the frog apex . However, if the frog is pulled forward due to the fingers have been too long for some time, this relationship no longer applies. All burning feet must be removed at least in the third cut.

the shape of the toe should follow the curvature of the line of hair when he is with his feet on the ground.

The walls must be of equal thickness all round unless flaring that had to be removed, or if your toes need to back up, in which case the walls may appear thinner in the areas when viewed from the bottom. The walls also be the same or a little way above the level of the sole at the time and have a well rounded edge or what is known as a "mustang roll." I like to bevel the walls, about 40 degrees of the white line to the edge, then add the mustang roll. In this way the next time you cut, there will be little or no jumping.

The frog who comprise approximately 2 / 3 of the total length of the bottom of the heel stiffener to the tip of the toe. (Measured by the central line) are also taper down toward the apex to the center of the foot to a slight reduction in the impact with the ground. Often it is necessary to trim the frog that no jagged edges to clean after the first several decorations.

The bars should be flush with the unique and clearly visible. Bars do not grow beyond half of the frog. If you think this is the bar false and should be removed until at least flush with the sole.

The sole shall be at least slightly concave, except for the outside 1 / 2 inch and all the dead one scaled deleted.

In my opinion there is no need to take any measure in inches or centimeters to achieve an excellent finish, in fact, I feel that this practice may be harmful.

The only "measure" I recommend to take nothing more than the 30 degree hairline slope.

A properly fitted helmet is a beautiful sight.

Even before you begin:

The first step is to examine your feet are.

Look for uneven wear, the medial lateral imbalance and lack of symmetry in form. Also look for the burning in the fingers or quarters. (Take notes if you feel the need)

Then observe the horse in motion to watch out or steps irregular rhythm.

Then see how the horse is standing, one foot in front is always behind the other? Does the horse look reasonably comfortable and relaxed?

If the feet pointing forward or what finger or toe out? If they do well is because the foot shape is caused by something or above, check the alignment of the joints. Observe if the leg is reduced centered on the hull. These are all things that can affect the hull shape has therefore also affect balance. Some hoof problems can not be corrected by the cut, but often these problems can be at least kept getting worse.

HOOFCARE

The main weapon should have in the battle for healthy hooves is the selection of the hull, which is used to collect sharps waste such as rocks, as well as manure and the soil moist and full of bacteria and chips. Unless you remove these contaminants daily run the risk of developing a horse afflictions different depending on the area of the hull of their normal grazing horse, living conditions and health of the hoof.

Many men will advise you to pick up his horse at least twice a day ... or more! Unless you have conditions that warrant such close scrutiny (eg, constant exposure to mud and manure, the rocky terrain naturally weak or helmets), I think it's necessary at all - once a day would be more than enough. Some horses get along very well with much less under the conditions of living.

Having said that, although I think some horse owners can go a little overboard in its recommendations helmet choice, it's better to err on the side of caution. So, although I will not go so far as to recommend several sessions a day (though in his case it may be necessary!), Which advises to pick the hooves of his horse at least once a day.

Another article on this site shows you are unsure of how to safely and efficiently collect a horse's hoof.

Depending on the season and soil conditions, the hooves of his horse may become too dry, becoming brittle and vulnerable to cracking. This is usually more of a problem for shoeing horses since the shoes and nails can reduce blood circulation and dry the hull. Two things you can do to combat this are:

Bullet Exercise your horse regularly! Activity improves blood circulation in the helmet.
Wear a helmet and bullet supplement Tuff Stuff, which is designed to harden the hoof wall while moisturizing.

Proper care of a horse also means selecting a qualified farrier to perform expert and regular cuts. This is not necessarily as easy as it sounds, so almost anyone can slap a blacksmith apron and carving away on one foot while delivering a skilled blacksmith. Whereas a bad haircut from a barber unqualified will do you no harm in the long term, a poor fit or a farrier shoeing unskilled can do significant damage to your horse ... to the point of doing so lame.

I do not want the statement above to be viewed as a scare tactic, but in my time I have had only a few blacksmiths work my horses, and trust me when I say that the difference between a medium and a large blacksmith surprising.

Equally important is that your farrier to be familiar with any special requirements for horse breeding, gaited horses and often require different angles of a quarter mile.

There is a debate between the world of horse barefoot to shoes. I personally am an advocate of bare feet. Scientific studies have shown that blood flow is reduced significantly over the foot and leg of a horse shod. In addition, footwear can cause the helmet is to compress, causing damage throughout the area of the dermis and that could lead to abscesses in the future (especially when / if the shoes are removed).

Many argue that if a horse has to go through rocky roads then the charterer will not be able to withstand the rigors of travel. This is partly true, depending on the circumstances of his horse. Some helmets are more durable than others, making it possible for a horse with sensitive feet must be shod before attempting any field. You may not want to take your horse on rough trails or pavement regularly if his horse was shod in advance for a long period of time and is now barefoot, helmets need time to heal and strengthen.

A helmet is very similar to our own feet. If we were to take off our shoes and run through the forest, most likely it would be a very painful experience. But if we wear shoes permanently, eventually harden our feet until we could traverse rugged terrain with ease.

The same can be said of his horse - but his helmet is always "hard" for us (like our skin always be gentle with him), unless the helmet is tempered through direct and regular use, which can hurt by riding hard in difficult terrain. So once it has been shod for a long time, you're almost obligated to keep nor to him that way indefinitely (which is not ideal for a horse's hooves) or to allow their helmets many months to harden and cure before to take rough terrain.

At the end there is no black and white answer. I summarize as: shoes can benefit a horse for specific requirements or time periods, but overall confidence in the shoes could cause serious harm to the health of your horse standing in the long term.

HORSE NUTRITION

A horse will eat between 2 and 3 percent of their body weight every day! However, adequate food for their equine friend requires more than providing a large amount of food. Horses require balanced diets as much as humans do, as human beings and allowances, the horses' diet should be determined by your age, weight, activity level and overall health.

Basic Horse Nutrition

The majority of a horse's diet should come from forage or hay. This can be grass hay or legume hay (clover, alfalfa), the most important thing is that the hay is fresh as moldy hay is not only unpleasant but also dangerous to the health of your horse.

Grains are another important component of the diet of a horse. Oatmeal cereal is probably the most popular, since they require no treatment and have a lot of volume, making it more difficult for a horse to overeating and reduce the risk of colic and founder. Barley and other grains of corn are popular.

Many companies are now producing processed horse feed, similar to food for dogs and cats available at pet stores and supermarkets. This may be good to ensure that the horses get adequate amounts of important nutrients, but in general, work best when the horses fed natural foods such as grasses and cereals, fruits and vegetables as snacks. If you're worried about your horse's diet lacks certain vitamins and mineral supplements consider adding a horse to a natural diet instead of moving to a processed food. If you think a food processor might be a better way to keep your horse's health, consult your veterinarian to make sure you choose the best.

Supplements and Horse Treats

In addition to supplements of vitamins and minerals, horses can take several supplements to help improve your overall health. One popular group of horse supplements are to maintain and improve joint health. Glucosamine and chondroitin are the main ingredients in the supplements (sometimes individually but usually in combination), with manganese being a popular additive for its role in bone formation.

It is important to note that, as in humans, horses supplements should be used only under the guidance of a qualified professional - in this case, a veterinarian. Not all horses are required supplements, and if they do, the type and quantity of these supplements is that for a change, so that the entry of a veterinarian is needed to ensure appropriate supplements given in appropriate doses. The fact that these natural substances are usually not mean they are automatically safe.

diets of horses "can also be supplemented with occasional horse treatment. Fruits and vegetables like apples, carrots and tomatoes even make delicious and nutritious snacks, as does a handful of granola. For more sweet treats, try sugar cubes , mints or a handful of sugar Froot Loops cereal. Just be sure to keep this "junk food" to a minimum of sugar in excess can cause weight gain and health problems in horses can be just as in humans.

PREVENTING PARASITES IN YOUR HORSE

horse parasites can be confronted with a well-planned horse deworming schedule that incorporates a variety of quality horse wormers, horse wormers but are an invaluable aid to help kill the parasites that manage to infect your horse, our ultimate goal must be adequate monitoring of parasite prevention practices to minimize the number of parasites that make your horse.

Clean maintaining stable

Maintaining a high level of cleanliness in their stable is one of the most important pest prevention measures you can take. Horse parasites thrive in dirt-covered, made of moisture, so be sure to clean manure each post at least once a day and keep plenty of clean, dry chips in hand. It may be useful to thoroughly disinfect each post once a week as well.

Keep food off the floor

Since the soil is a primary source for parasites is important to keep the mouth of his horse outside as much as possible. Place a rack of hay on the wall since your horse can eat most of their hay in a clean, upright. Make sure that any food or grain is served in a bucket of grain, preferably one that attaches to a square corner instead of one sitting on the floor and may be expelled again.

The additional benefit to keep food off the floor is a dirt horse also eat less.

Keep grass Cleaning

Try not to allow the manure to accumulate in pastures, providing a first condition of life of the parasites of the horse. It's a good idea to take a rake of mud and grass clean the manure once a week.

Turn Your Pastures

Parasites thrive in areas that are overcrowded and overused, so if you have room to rotate pastures tests every two weeks. By not allowing the use of a prairie occasionally best elements residing kill any parasites.

Wet grasslands are a problem

Horse parasites thrive in wet conditions, so that horses are much more vulnerable when they are grazing in the wet fields. Consider the possibility of keeping young horses in a meadow with a pile of hay in such conditions.

Isolate new arrivals

Do not enter a horse back to his flock until it has been the subject of a deworming program. Since all horses are presumably kept in a fund horse deworming schedule, the newcomers who have not been cleaned can be a major contributor to an infestation of parasites.

The above tips will not guarantee your equine partner is a complete protection against parasites on horseback, so that should not be used in place of horse wormers. That said, if you own one horse and its environment is kept clean and sanitary then you can probably worm less frequently than normal frequency recommended.