HOW NOT TO LOAD HORSE ON TRAILOR

Error # 1:

"Here, Kitty Kitty ..."

Unless they have been educated, new horse owners often think a horse is like a cat or a dog. They figure if your thighs touch and say, "Come ... Come ... Come ..." the horse'll just jump right into the trailer like a dog or cat happy.

Error # 2:

"Using food as bait

Putting hay, grain, apples, or whatever in front of the trailer to tempt a horse at a walk and eat almost never works. Doing so would be a fluke. I've seen horses lean forward to try to eat the food, but not enter the trailer if your life depended on it.

Error # 3:

"Forgetting to attach the trailer to the truck"

Do not forget to hitch the trailer to the truck before getting a horse to ride in the trailer. If a horse step on a trailer that moves around unforgivable, have more difficulty getting the horse in the afternoon. He recalls - especially if it is the first time the horse.

Mistake # 4:

"The classic tug of war"

Here's the scene. The man (or woman) pulls lead rope to desperately dragging his horse into the trailer. Horse weighs 10 times more than a man or a woman and has a force far more than the man or woman. The final score of this battle is: Human - Zero ... Horse - Winner

Mistake # 5:

"Go trail riding horse is good before the load in a trailer"

I've seen time and again. People rushed to the horse and when the trip is but the horse will get in the trailer. Surprisingly, the horse owner comments, "Dang horse, got in the last month." Remember to get your horse to practice this so it is fixed in his brain.

It seems there will always be at least once a horse owner can not load his horse into a trailer. But the secret is to teach a horse sending signals so you know what you want him to do. It's partly how man and horse communicate.

If you ever find yourself frustrated with your horse because it will not enter, here's a quick fix.

Get a long rope and tie over his back and let it slide down to near the top of his hind legs. Let the rope around his hind success and note their reaction. (Be holding this rope in his right hand and hold his halter with the left hand) will kick the rope on his hind legs, or maybe not. If it does, it means that it is likely that along with the rope to be back there.

If you start in the string then he has to get used to it. Let the type of cord to hang there and touch his hind legs. The horse can jump and try to pass it. He can move forward or in a circle. While holding his halter stiffen your left arm a bit and make it go around while holding the rope and halter. You, the driver, are acting as an axis.

Fairly quickly the horse will notice the string is not hurt and can move to the next step.

Pull the string to get the horse to move with you. When you move forward from their extraction, release the pressure. The idea is that it moves when pressure is exerted. You should quickly realize what you want.

Now I have the trailer and head guide on the trailer if necessary. With the lead rope attached to his rope, pulling the lead rope while pulling harder on the "butt rope".

Your horse may or may not go in the trailer, but most likely will. Also, be careful to do this because he can jump in the trailer very quickly and you could get hurt.

COMMON HORSE CATCHING MISTAKES

The other day I was invited to see my friend's new horse. He had about a month before you get to see her. When I got home, he met me outside and said, "C'mon ... let's go see it." We stayed at the fence and marveled at how beautiful she was. Excited, he asked: "Do you want to pet her?" "Sure!" I said. So my friend took the halter and went after her.

As I watched him hunting I remembered the silent movies where everyone is moving comically fast with the background music. As I laughed to myself I heard him ask aloud, "Why keep running from me?"

That was a good question. Many people have that problem. There are lots of reasons horses run from their owners. One reason is fear. Horses are the epitome of fear. If they feel their life is in danger will remain.

If a horse is comfortable with his pack, although one or two other horses, which can be uncomfortable for him. Its entire DNA speaks loud and clear to him that the herd is the safest place. Therefore, if you leave the herd could mean his life is threatened - at least ... that is their thinking.

One of the biggest mistakes I see are the new owners of horses that make their horse work almost every time you see them. Picture of it. You're a horse standing there with his friends. Is ninety-four degrees on its side, flies will not leave you alone, and was doing very well standing there doing nothing - thank you very much. And because they are extremely alert because of their innate fear, you quickly find the owner comes to claim that the strange appearance, the rope not-so-good-fitting that goes in the head.

The last 400 gazillion times the owner approached you with it in hand, he accidentally stabbed in the cheek while clumsily jerking it on the head. Then output to your friends and go run in circles for thirty minutes. Boring!

Rather, the horse owner should alternate working and pleasure horse. In other words, a day's walk from his horse with rope in hand and pet him. Talk to him. Tell her how beautiful she is. Take your halter and rub it on your body as a paintbrush. Get to think that the halter will give pleasure when he sees what will feel good about it.

The next day, with the rope in hand, go see your horse and pet him. Pleasant conversation. Then put the rope. Pet again. Keep talking nice. After a few minutes, take the halter off and rub his body with it. Then walk.

Now the horse begins to think, "Well! That's all I wanted. "For a while, an alternative to ask your horse to work versus not work and take your halter with you each time to keep you guessing," Is my pet going to tell me I'm purty, or going to work a little ? I guess that is my pet, so it will stay. "

Other reasons horses run from their owners is a lack of training can be good. Another reason is perhaps the horse is getting positive reinforcement at the wrong time. How can that be? A horse can learn to run your head - and if it does put a carrot or a kind of temptation AFTER running.

So how to stop running and catch your horse?

It depends on why the horse races. If the horse is scared then you need to get your confidence back. This is achieved by doing positive things with your horse. When picked up, do not ask to work. Get out your brush and groom him. He'll like that. Would you like to think of being with you as an enjoyable experience - one you want when you see it. This is especially important if you are away from their friends in the flock.

Because the horse feels safe to be with their friends in the flock, must make you feel safe to be removed from the herd. Therefore, when you catch him you can groom and give a good experience to feel safe.

A good practice is to put your horse in a small yard and climb it. Teaching is good to be with you. This will give you a good base to get him later when he is in an open field.

Another neat trick you can do is use lunging to teach your horse to arrive. Do not simply run him in boring circles. Ask him to change direction and pass through obstacles, etc. Make sure you praise when you do well and give it rest. Do not run him on the floor. Doing so will re-think that you do have to work hard.

As you're lunging, the commands used to get it to do what you want him to do. As you and he be good at it, it will respond much better to you in the open field.

A mistake that many people who are chasing the horse to try to catch it. You simply can not. They are very fast and agile. Not only that, it tends to strengthen the instinct of a horse to be prey and they need to get to safety ... it means ... away from you.

Sometimes you can use another horse to help you catch a horse to be friends with the horse that does not want to catch up. If you go to pet a horse it can sometimes get the horse to capture. He may want to cherish too.

Be sure not to punish a horse once you capture it. First, do not know why you got into trouble. Secondly, it is a great way to bring it to NOT want to be with you. If he does not want to be with you, often evade.

HOW TO STOP YOUR HORSE FROM BUCKING

	Can be a great fear of being in a wild horse. If you are a rookie, a bucking horse can almost force you to give up the "owning a horse" dream. But it need not be so. I have read that people who can ride a bucking horse feel it is a good rider. That may be. But that does not mean they are good for training. And training is what we do. Preventing bucking begins when the horse is a colt. You should go to every extent in his training so will be unwilling to money - and that includes preventing bucking if you try. Of course, this does not help if your horse dollars already. Therefore, if your horse dollars then the question is whether or not it is soluble. The answer is: Usually. The first thing to do is try to figure out why dollars. This can be done to try to eliminate the causes. As an example, one of the most common causes is that the pilot bucking punishes the horse's mouth without knowing it. In addition, the horse may be giving aid to the conflict. For example, the pilot can start your horse forward and jerk on the reins to stop him. Then the pilot moves his head about him in turn. As the horse fighting the angry rider boots and tight again. Finally, the horse of dollars. Why? Because it is quite frustrated. Therefore, the fixation of their driving habits that make sense and are provided for your horse is going to solve that problem. If you are a novice rider riding lessons below will help greatly. As a ride, ride relaxed. Concentrate on the feel of his horse. Give the signal for help or do what you want. No more than exaggerated. Give enough signal that he does what he wants then so be it. If you plan to put it in a canter from a walk or trot, or vice versa, then think ahead and do it in a relaxed fluid. No surprise or frighten your horse. Keep you relaxed. A relaxed horse will not buck. Another solution may be changing bits. If you are using a little slow maybe you should try going to a steak. A steak is easier on the mouth of a horse. Still keep in touch with your horse and help you relax. Again a bit of common money horse when the rider asks the horse to gallop or trot. Sometimes a horse galloping money, it is natural for him. It could also occur if the driver signals his horse too suddenly and severely to ask for canter. You see, many people think you have to start your horse galloping hard to get - and when they do, toss in the horse's mouth when he starts. Or, the rider can ride with loose reins for the horse to canter and then jerk his mouth to try to slow the horse down right when he starts galloping. I do not know if you seen it yet, but what is happening here is that the horse is confused. Not only that, it is also hurting the horse. After all, standing in the place of his horse. If asked to gallop and the second he did he felt a painful jolt in the mouth ... can not be a bit annoying? And if you spend all the time, do not you think to yourself, "I have this idiot off my back - that is killing me!" Now let's say you do not know why his wild horse. Suppose your driving habits are good and your horse anyway dollars. Here are some helpful suggestions. First, if your horse dollars, then it is essential not to stop. If he does, he learns that if you leave everything you have to do is money. Very quickly, you have a smart horse who knows that to stop just money. So, instead of stopping, do this. First, rest your arms against your body relaxed and still maintain contact with her horse. In doing so, lean back and lead his horse to move forward. (Using a horse to move forward is a great secret of horse training to help you get your horse's cooperation and obedience.) Due to support his arms, his head of his horse to go up and going forward makes his attempts at bucking hard enough you will stop trying to money. The point is that the horse can not ball as it moves forward with energy. The next step is that you must keep moving the horse forward with energy using your seat and legs until you stop trying to money - be sure to check your speed. Sometimes it is necessary to maintain the head of his horse to stop bucking as he progresses. If you must, then be sure not to pull the head back. Instead, pull up. You do that by extending the arms and pull up. If you have a horse that is opposed whenever he wants, then it must be doubled. The trick is to make the money first if you can. Dual boot it then the same with energy. Then you fold the other side and you boot off it and put it into a trot and have to keep moving. Remember that the horse should slow down the ball. If you can tell your horse is slowing down and preparing to start their money forward and accelerate the pace.

PLANTS THAT ARE BAD FOR HORSES

To clear land for an equestrian facility site in a wooded area, or when horses are allowed to graze in a wooded area, care must be taken to eliminate poisonous plants that are harmful to the horses which they reside. While horses tend to avoid toxic plants because of its taste, it can still be affected by food, especially in sparsely populated areas or in times of drought.

Cornell University lists the following species of plants that are of particular interest to horse owners:

Red maple, Fiddleneck, locoweed Thistle, Yellow Star, Crown Vetch, Datura, Horsetail, Buckwheat, St. John's Wort, Mountain Laurel, Fernando sensitive Cherry, Black, sour cherry, Choke Cherry, Pin Cherry, Bracken Oaks Fern, rhubarb, rhododendron, castor, Black Locust, Grounsels, Common Nightshade, Black Nightshade, nettle, Fishing, Buffalo Bur, Potato or Milo sorghum, Sudan grass, Johnson grass and yew, as well as molds of various kinds in various foods.

In the case of yew and fir, if the entire plant or just a few cuts, a small amount can kill a horse within hours as a result of heart failure. The above list is not exhaustive and there are a number of other toxic plants that can be researched on the Internet.

Equestrian landscape architecture and site planning must take this factor into account to ensure that landscapers eliminate dangerous plants during installation. Landscape Architect should walk the space provided, along with the installer of landscape and verification of dangerous plants and mark them for deletion. In specifying proposed planting locations for the equestrian site, the landscape architect must assure that toxic plants are not placed in a position where horses can come into contact with them.

Landscape architects must be licensed by the State in which the practice and are often members of the American Society of Landscape Architects, ASLA.

Landscape architecture encompasses the analysis, planning, design, management and administration of natural and built environments. The national professional association is the American Society of Landscape Architects, based in Washington. ASLA full members have graduated from a landscape architecture program accredited, have obtained 7 years of education and / or professional experience and licensed by the state. In Michigan, as well as all other States, a period of three (3) day LARE examination administered by the Council of Landscape Architectural Registration Boards is required to spend to get the state license.

Landscape designers do not have these professional credentials. Many state and local governments require designs to be stamped registration status landscape architect.

As social landscape architect in the State of Michigan and chief architect of Sexton Ennett Design, LC, a landscape architectural firm in southeast Michigan, I am particularly aware of poisonous plants. See: http: / / Www.sexton-ennett.com.

I am also a breeder of champion Oldenburg warm blood horse sport and am sensitive to issues of poisonous plants related to equestrian facilities. View: http://www.markimfarms.com.

Enjoy your equestrian activities, while ensuring the protection of the health of their horses. An ounce of prevention is all you need.

HOW TO GET THE HORSE TO TRUST YOU

It's much nicer to ride a horse that trusts you rather than one that does. But getting a horse to trust that it is a difficult task, especially if the horse has a history of past abuses.

In fact, you can make friends with a horse who is shy and reticent, but it has a history of past abuses. Make sure you approach the horse on the left. And remember to show him what you have in your hands - even if it is a hoof pick, to be used in it.

The second thing to remember is to always wear tight clothing. Loose clothing flaps in the breeze and can unnerve horse. And once been afraid, it is hard to do what you think. Its uncomfortable for both the owner and the horse, if there is an element of fear and mistrust between the two.

In short not to do the horse from any activity which is not believed capable of doing. The horse has to have confidence in you, when asked to jump or jog along a path unknown. If you ask him to jump and he does not lose the confidence that you instantly. He was frightened to take any commands from you next time. So, instead trying to build confidence that slowly and gradually. Practice with it, is on a wide and easy road or jumping over obstacles easier. This will develop confidence in you. Never do anything you do is beyond their capabilities.

Earning the trust of a horse that has been abused, it is almost impossible. However, with patience, can evoke some confidence at the end.

Having your horse if a soft voice and soothing support. Do this before asking you to complete a task. Never is key to your horse, demanding to get their attention. And never try to ride it before you get your confidence. Relieve him of any fear or mistrust in the first place. When used to his presence and his voice, then approach him. Always remember that a horse is afraid it is very difficult to handle, so never force anything on him. Instead, I offer some food he likes. Shortly after something because you enjoyed a few times, gently touches his nose be your friend.

You know you have reached an understanding with your horse, if you find that your horse is what allows movement. However, you should never ride a horse mistreated, without the aid of a horse trainer, who has had experience with abused horses. These horses are calm when they are on the ground, but starts to panic when trying to assemble.

WHY VACCINATE MY HORSE?

What do you do when you vaccinate your horse? When to vaccinate horses deliberately exposing a portion of an organism causing the disease or exposure to disease-causing organism, such as bacteria or virus of a disease. This is done in a very small dose. We do this in order to provoke an immune response in the horse that the horse is expected to protect the future of that particular disease. Generally, this is how vaccines work.

Is a100% guarantee that the horse never develop the disease? No. But if a horse contracts the disease who were vaccinated against is usually a clearer case without vaccination. Chances of recovery are much higher with the vaccine than without it. Vaccines should also be stored, handled and administered. Not doing so may impair the effectiveness of the vaccine.

Here are some of the diseases they vaccinate horses for:

Tetanus (Lockjaw): Tetanus occurs when a specific bacterium enters a horse like a deep wound. Such as tetanus, grows and produces a toxin attacks the nervous system of horses. Tetanus is fatal.

Encephalitis: Horses can be attacked by three types of encephalitis, Eastern, Western and Venezuela. Mosquitoes are carriers of this virus. Horses are infected by the bite of infected mosquitoes (usually found in the states near the border with Mexico). Encephalitis infects the brain of horses. If they survive may have permanent defects as a result. Encephalitis is potentially fatal.

Rabies: It infects the nervous system with a fatal infection. Rabies is caused by a bite from an infected animal (such as bats, raccoons or skunks). Rabies was not diagnosed in a horse during a period of time, and can actually transmit the infection to humans. This can occur through contact with bodily fluids skin (a cut on the hand).

Potomac horse fever: Generally limited to certain specific geographical areas (along the Potomac River) and in temperate areas and near rivers. This disease is characterized by depression, fever, diarrhea and founder. Ask your veterinarian or local extension agent for advice in your area.

rotavirus diarrhea: cause cuts, diarrhea potentially life-threatening in young foals. Rotavirus appears is kept by the mother (or passably another horse). The horses pass the virus can not develop problems, but simply pass it on. Pregnant mares can be vaccinated then pass antibodies to their offspring in the first milk (colostrum). Ask your veterinarian about the availability of this vaccine.

Influenza: This shows how severe cold symptoms and high fever as a risk for developing bacterial pneumonia. There can be periods when the virus mutates, causing epidemics to break. Vaccines are not completely effective in preventing the disease since the virus can mutate easily. The vaccine can still reduce the severity of symptoms. Horses that are at higher risk for influenza are very old, very young horses under stress, travel horses, and riding in the box, where there is horse traffic.

Botulism: This is caused by the toxin of a bacterium related to that cause tetanus. Horses are very sensitive to it and many may die from this disease or complications from the disease. If this disease is contracted, treatment can be expensive.

Rhinopneumonitis: Also known as the "Rhinoceros." This disease is the "common cold." The rhino virus can invade the paralysis of horses that causes the nervous system, and can also cause abortion. Like the flu, the risk factors are the same. Every two months throughout pregnancy mares should be vaccinated.

Strangles: not done routinely strangles vaccination is recommended for horses at high risk of exposure. The risk of side effects of intramuscular vaccine can be up to 30% of the vaccine. This can include fever, loss of appetite, local swelling, muscle stiffness and abscesses at the site of vaccination. The vaccines usually provide reliable protection of critical illness, but only for a few months. Does not prevent the disease altogether. Unless there is known contamination on site, shipping horses often or a lot of traffic in and out of the farm, due to side effects and the limited time that is effective, it must weigh the benefits of mumps vaccination status or not. That said, there is one type of vaccine that drowns a spray in the nose of the horse. intranasal vaccine has a low incidence of side effects. The protection is more or less the same. It is unclear whether the intranasal vaccine for pregnant mares receive the necessary antibodies in the blood (the protection of breeding with colostrum). It would be advisable to use the vaccine intramuscularly with mares around foaling.

West Nile: This virus has caused many deaths in horses in recent years in the United States. It is transmitted by infected mosquitoes. This virus infects the central nervous system and causes symptoms of encephalitis. The signs of encephalitis in horses include loss of appetite and depression, as well as any combination of the following symptoms - fever, weakness or paralysis of hind limbs, mouth twitching, impaired vision, incoordination, head pressing, aimless wandering , convulsions, inability to swallow, circling, hyperexcitability, or coma. It is recommended to vaccinate for this disease, but avoid vaccinating pregnant mares in late pregnancy. If you have a pregnant mare, consult your veterinarian for a better time for your vaccinations for your area.

What diseases should vaccinate your horse? That depends. You, on the advice of your veterinarian or local extension office will have to make that decision. Getting the best, updated information from these sources will help you choose wisely.

PICKING THE PROPER SADDLE FOR YOUR HORSE

Ten Tips for a seat assembly

1. Clearance wither The throat of a saddle must clear the cross, but not so narrow as to pinch the horses back.

The ideal distance should be 2-3 fingers between the saddle pommel (throat) and the cross horses. Anything less is risky and if there is no office of the chair should not be used.

2.To check you can look down the throat to see the light at the other end, put the saddle on the horse, cinched, but sweatshirts or pads and then see if you have this office.

3. Gullet width - The width of the throat (when viewed from underneath the saddle), should be about three inches wide all the way up the handle of the tile.

4. Balance Saddle - The seat has to sit right, ie not falling over the front or back. To check this, once you have put the saddle on the horse, see if when the rider sits in the chair is sitting flat.

The balance of the chair must be reviewed again by one person on earth with the rider on the horse and the horse standing on level ground.

5. Saddle seat position - seat of the chair should be positioned so that the rider is placed over the horse's center of balance.

The location of the horse's center of balance depends on a combination of speed and collection of the horses. If the horse is standing or walking the center of gravity is just behind the heart girth and below the cross.

If the horse at a trot or gallop, the center of balance moves forward and if at a gallop or jump the center of balance moves further forward. If the horse is very collected the center of balance will be back, regardless of the way, that if the horse is in a broader framework.

6. The length of the chair - A chair should not go beyond the 18th thoracic vertebra, which binds to the horses of the last rib, this is beyond the lumbar spine, which is the weakest part of the horses back . If you feel the ribs on your horse and the work of your hand back until you can feel the last rib, then run your fingers up the rib to get to the spine - which is the point at which the chair should not go further.

7. "These panels should be smooth and even contact along the horses spine to distribute the rider's weight evenly. An irregular shape increases the pressure points and pain.

With saddles used when fitting seat, make sure that the panels are still in good condition and is not necessary to re-flocking etc.

8. The movement of a chair - When driving, the seat should not move backward or forward or rock up and down. To help see if this is happening in the installation of seat, it helps if you have someone standing on the floor, watching to see if you move the seat as walk, trot and gallop with them.

9. The size of the tree - the tree size, which determines the width of the chair and the height of the throat is one of the most important factors when assembling chairs.

A tree that is too narrow, it's a problem that a too wide, and that will push the saddle points of the tree on the horse again, and eventually lead to muscle wasting / atrophy, in the long run will lead to emptying of the horse again on both sides of the backbone of the entire shoulder area.

It can be easily tested by observing the pattern of sweat from the horses back after work. The pattern of sweat even have to sweat over the panels, with the exception of points of points of trees, which will round dry spots in the area of sweat.

10. The placement of a chair - When fitting a saddle chair should be placed two to four fingers behind the blade end of the horse.